June 1st. Proceeded a short distance, when the rain compelled us to build another shelter. The tide more distinctly to be heard.

2nd. Proceeded a short distance, and camped under the shelter of a large rata: the bush one complete mass of briar, supplejack, and ekiakia, with immense rata trees.

3rd. Had the satisfaction of seeing the tide rise in the river. The travelling still very bad, but hunger and the prospect of relief before us made us get through a fair day's journey.

4th. During the night the rats stole the provisions designed for our breakfast, so we had to start without one. Accomplished about a mile, when we saw the pa of the Maoris. Fired a salute of powder, but received no answer, neither could we discern any smoke; so we pushed on, and by night reached our old quarters, where I once before had slept on my trip with Mr Heaphy down the coast.

5th. To be disappointed after three months' anxious anticipation is truly vexatious, but such was the case with us, for, on exploring this morning, we found two canoes, a wari, and a wata 2, but no provisions ­so, after many days and nights looking forward to a full meal of potatoes, on reaching the coast we were compelled to eat the rimu, or seaweed, instead. Yesterday I should have thought seaweed poisonous, or nearly so; now I eat it with a relish. So much for hunger. A dirty wet day, with thunder at night.

I was much disappointed in the last eight or ten miles of this river. I had previously seen the land from the coast, and thought it good and richly wooded, where, on inspection, I found a wet mossy surface, with little, if any, vegetable soil, the growth being chiefly rata. It will certainly not be in my time that the banks of the Kawatiri will be cultivated by a white population.

From the windings of this river, and its steep granite rocks, and also from its being all thickly wooded, I found it impossible to take any bearing of its course. I could distinguish by the sun its numerous windings. In some of them I found it ran due E., sometimes N., and principally to the S.W. or W. In my opinion, the whole northern bank of the river, down which I travelled, is perfectly valueless, being mostly black birch, and very steep. There appear no indications of coal, slate, or any metals, the chief forma­tion of the country being coarse granite rock. The opposite bank seemed to contain pine trees in many places, and to have large flats of level timbered land; but the valley Inakaiona is the only open country of any extent on the banks of the Kawatiri, from the Matukituki to its embouchure.

6th. This morning we saw a native on the other side of the river, who told us the Maories were at Omau collecting mussels, but would return in the evening. We launched a canoe and crossed the river, but found nothing eatable there, and but a small potato garden. This is the first year the natives have resided here, and to form a cultivation they had carried their seed potatoes from Mawera (Greymouth), a distance of nearly sixty miles, over a most difficult country. Returned to our shed in the evening.

I think, from the number of seals I saw on the Black Reef and on the rocks off Tauranga (Below Cape Foulwind), it would pay a party ,of industrious men to go down there sealing. The last party were too lazy, and not properly outfitted. The natives tell me the seals had deserted this part for some years, but were now returning in great quantities.

At Tauranga, some years ago, a crew from a sealing vessel landed and killed five natives, in revenge Mitchell notes that this settlement remained until 1880 and that its soil was capable of cultivation.for some of their crew having been killed by Enihu for the crime of stealing his daughter.

Last year a party of natives, residents of Mawera, walked to Kawatiri to see the sealing party and boat, and established small potato gardens at Tauranga, Totara, and Potikohua. This will render the walk from the Kawatiri to Mawera easy to accomplish. We also found the ladders to the Miko cliff much im­proved, and several other alterations, showing the traffic that had taken place. Mouwika had made five journeys to remove his effects and supply seed potatoes.

The coast from Wanganui (Little Wanganui, below Karamea), the residence of Enihu, to the river Kawatiri, is called by the natives Taitapu, and is allowed by them to belong to Enihu by con­quest. From thence southward is called Potuni (Poutini), and is said to belong to Tairoa (Taiaroa), the present chief of the Ngatau (Ngai-tahu) tribe.

From the Kawatiri to the Arahura I had previously seen, and the character and features of the country were fully described by Mr Heaphy on our return; I have therefore nothing to notice except a few personal incidents, the relation of which would interest no one.

Since my last visit to Taramakau, the natives had increased their wealth by the addition of three pigs­a boar and two sows: they were given them by the natives of Massacre Bay, and were carried down here during the summer. The sows had each a litter of pigs some few days old; the one two, the other seven young ones. Pigs being new to them, they were kept in the chief's house, to which I, being a stranger, was forced to resort; and they certainly did not add to the comfort of visitors, for I had to keep up a continual fight with them at night for the possession of my blanket, and during the day for my kit of potatoes. Pigs may tend to increase the wealth of the natives, or assist to flavour their potatoes, but they certainly do not tend to increase cleanliness or promote industry. I am sure nothing could be so useful to these natives as goats, for which their country is well calculated. Goats would be more useful, and less troublesome in their potato gardens. The skins would serve them instead of dog-skins, of which they are very fond; and it would induce them to lessen the number of their dogs, the whole of the island being now overrun with them, as they never kill a dog unless for its skin. I took much trouble to impress the value of goats on them, and promised them some if they would come and fetch them from Nelson, which they engaged to do.

7th. This morning we crossed the river in a canoe, and were received with a hearty welcome by the natives. There are only three men with their wives, and five boys, living here; they had eaten all their potatoes, and were living on mussels and fern-root. The native Owika told us he was ashamed of the diet he had to offer us, but that the sealing boat had been there, and the party had consumed all his potatoes and fish. This being the first year of occupying Kawatiri, he had to carry his seed potatoes from the Mawera. The natives are members of the Wesleyan Church. A dirty wet day.

8th. Another wet day.

9th. My natives turned out to procure fern-root, hoping to find better than the natives gave us. They

could find none, and returned empty-handed in the evening.

10th. Staying with the natives, and sharing their food. Found some sowthistles to improve our diet.

11th The natives collected and cooked an oven of the fern tree. A showery day.

12th. Shot a dozen pigeons, which we divided amongst the natives.

13th. Nothing doing. A cold wet day.

Sunday, 14th. Kept as a Sabbath.

15th. This morning at daybreak we were on our way to Arahura, having in company Topere and son, and a lad named Henry: they are going to Taramakau for seed potatoes. We reached Kamakawa, and put up for the night, which proved a very rainy one.

16th. A rainy day, but we came on to Tauranga in search of food, it being a celebrated place for mussels. Saw several small seals playing about on the rocks. The natives have made a potato garden here on the promise of the sealers to. return with a larger vessel next summer. .

17th. Made a humu of mussels. A wet day.

18th. Made another humu of mussels, so that we are now prepared for crossing the Tuhinu range when the weather permits-thus escaping fourteen or fifteen miles of very difficult beach travelling, known on Cook's charts as the Five Fingers.

19th. Came to Topara, collecting a small quantity of fern-root at Okari 1 on our way. A wet drizzling day, with heavy rain at night.    .

20th. A fine day, and we are enabled to reach the Ngawaitakere2, and get all ready to cross the Tuhinu 3 range.

Sunday, 21st. This morning I was astonished by seeing the natives making preparations to start. However, such_ was the case; and they told me, when I remonstrated with them, that they had the authority of the Church allowing them to travel on a Sunday when away from their pas. So we ascended, and slept on the summit of the Tihuni (Tauwhinu) range. Rain.

22nd. Reached Potikahua (Fox River), and made some prepara­tions for cooking the mamaku.

23rd. Made a large oven of mamaku, which proved in all respects a good one.

24th. Came on to the ana Matuku.

25th. Came on to the Rotuku.

26th. Reached the Miko, when the natives went out on the cliffs snaring the koukou 4, and returned with seventy-one of these birds.

27th. Crossed the Miko range, and reached the Punahaere, where we slept. Some rain.

28th. Came on to the Waimangati, to be in readiness to reach the pa in the morning.

29th. Came on to the pa Kararoa, and once again in my life enjoyed a hearty meal of potatoes. Found only four natives and two children residing here; the others had left to join the natives of Massacre Bay, now the wars are over.

30th. Staid at the pa resting ourselves. For what reason the natives choose. to live here I cannot imagine. It is a place devoid of all value or interest. They have but little ground to cultivate, and they catch no fish, the only acceptable food being the mussels, which they find on the rocks on a calm day at low water. There is not even the ponamu (Pounamu – jade, or greenstone) to be found here as an inducement.

July 1st. Made an early start for Mawera (Greymouth) this morning, which we reached about midday, and found the chief Te Uru  (Tuhuru, Ngai-tahu, chief of Westland ) there with a lot of natives. Te Uru is the father of Tairoa, and the acknowledged head of the Ngatau tribe. Had a long cry, with much rubbing of noses, which ended in a feast of potatoes. I found some fresh arrivals of natives here since my last visit, who had walked over from the East Coast.

3rd. Staying at Mawera. A thunder storm.

4th. A fine but cold day.

5th. A dirty rainy day.

6th. A cold day, accompanied with thunder.

7th. A fine day, but very cold; all the surrounding country covered with snow.

8th. Still at Mawera.

9th. Started with a large number of natives, twenty­ eight in all, for Taramakau, which we reached in the evening, and were received with the hearty welcome usually given to strangers.

10th. At Taramakau, feasting on potatoes. From Taramakau, on a clear day, seen bearing S.E., is a lofty-capped mountain (Mount Rolleston), which is considerably higher than the mean range of which it forms part. This peak is called by the natives Kai Mataiu, and is seen from the eastern coast, at Port Cooper. The river Taramakau, and also the branch of the river Mawera called Potikahauhau, take their rise from this moun­tain.  

11th. A fine day.

Sunday, 12th. Attended native service and school in the evening. The natives here are members of the Church of England and attend service regularly; but they .appear to me very ignorant of its nature or meaning.

13th. I wished the Maories to proceed with me to the southward but they refused, and those living here told me I could not go during the winter: so I found myself fixed here for an indefinite length of time.

My journal during the three ensuing months contains little except a record of the weather, and of little excursions I took to acquire a better knowledge of the country and of native habits and customs. I therefore omit it, excepting a few unconnected remarks I pencilled down from time to time. 1

Paroa 2 was the only place where I found a native avaricious. I moved into a new house there from the pigs and fleas, when E Toto wanted payment for the house and potatoes he gave me. I therefore left him, when he was taken to task by the other natives.

There are two men, four women, and three children living at the mouth of the river Mawera, on the northern bank; and two men, two women. There are only seven natives living at Paroa – a man, a woman, and five children, of the Wesleyan Church. 'There are twenty-four natives at Taramakau­men, women, and children. Twenty of these are members of the Church, and four of the Wesleyan connexion. There are only three natives living at Arahura-a man, wife, and one daughter. They are members of the Church. There are four natives living at Okitika-one man, two women, and one child ­members of the Church.  They are all members of the Wesleyan Church but two, who are of the Church of England. The natives here preserve the birds they catch during the winter months, when they are in excellent condition, in a rimu or sea-weed bag. They open the bird down the back, and take out all the bones; they then lay the flesh of the bird in a shallow platter made of the bark of the totara tree, which is called a patua, when they cook the bird by applying red-hot stones; they then place the cooked birds in the rimu bag, and pour over them the extracted fat, and tie tightly the mouth of the bag. I have tasted birds kept two years in this manner, and found them very good. They also keep eels and seals in the same way, using whale-oil for their preservation. This district used to be noted for its numerous birds-wekas, kakapos, and kiwis-but they are now almost extirpated by the wild dogs.

The seasons are earlier than in Blind Bay, although a degree more south. This is shown by the vegetation. The natives also plant their gardens much sooner. They tell me they have no crop if they plant in Decem­ber, which is the month usually chosen by the natives in Cook's Straits. Potato planting is a regular feast among the natives here, and all the good things are reserved for and produced on this occasion, the chiefs trying to outdo each other in liberality and profusion. In the present instance, two large ovens of potatoes and fish. were cooked and consumed, also a poha of ready-dressed wekas; and in the evening, a stick of tobacco and a basket of cooked potatoes were given to each workman.

There is great taste shown by the natives in the poha, or bag of preserved wekas; and I believe it is always made for a present, for which they expect a return. They very neatly tie the leaves of the raupo, or bulrush, round the poha. It is then placed on a three-legged stool, and mounted with a well and handsomely woven crown, made of feathers o_ the birds enclosed.. The one I saw contained one hundred birds, and was given by Tipia to Ewi, being a present in return for one of moka, or dog-fish. Tipia and party, on presenting the poha, were also fed, or rather gorged, each having a kit of potatoes and taro, a large quantity of the kotiro, or preserved potato, and. gar­nished well with different sorts of fish. The natives appear particularly fond of giving and receiving presents, and I think the first donor gets off the best. Potato planting requires great labour here. The natives having no axes for felling trees, are obliged to ascend all the trees and cut off the boughs, and as the timber will not burn, all has to be carried from the ground. There is no supplejack, but there are some very large rata trees, which are worse. The axe I carried was constantly in use, and tended materially to increase their clearings.

In most of the charts of New Zealand, there is laid down, about the middle of this island, a large lake called Lake Kora. No such lake exists, but there is a large mud-flat, or salt-water lake, on the East Coast, near to Port Cooper, and bounding one side of the sheep-run of the Messrs. Deans' Poturinga­motu (Riccarton), which is called by the natives Wiora (Lake Ellesmere ), and, having the same pronounciation, I imagine to be the same lake improperly placed.

The natives tell me there is a lake and a grass plain of some size on the banks of this river, but I am too anxious to proceed to visit them.

In October and November commences the fishing season here - the mutta 3 or white-bait, entering the rivers and the tide in great quantities. They are in such shoals that I have seen the dogs standing on the banks and lapping them from the stream. The natives take large numbers, which they lay on flax mats, and expose to the sun three or four days; they then pack them tightly, and preserve them in their storehouses for winter use.

October 12th. With a right good will I mounted my load on my back, and after many shakes of the hand, and much rubbing of noses, I left the Tara­makau natives, and for once more felt myself moving with my own inclination. I had the company of. the three chiefs at this place, viz., Te Kau-hauke, Tipiha, and Paeture, with his daughter (leaving my own party behind); just in my opinion a nice little party. We reached Arahura, and put up for the night, which proved a rainy one.           .

13th and 14th. Rain, with a gale of wind.

15th. Fine. Started for Okitika, a river of some

considerable size, at the mouth of which was formerly a large pa, occupied by Enihu, and the other natives now living at Wanganui. There is an old canoe here, which the natives told me was once used for hapuka fishing in fine weather, but that the sea has encroached on the land and rendered the bar dangerous. There is some good bush land on the banks of this river, and some tara plantations of former days. Walked about six miles.

16th. Launched the canoe and crossed to the other bank, where we had to erect a shelter against the wind and rain.

17th and 18th. Continuation of gale. Went with the natives eel fishing.

19th. Fine. Soon after daylight we shouldered our respective burdens, and made a good start, reaching a stream of water called Paiere, which runs parallel to the shore for five or six miles. We took breakfast at a small potato garden here, and again moved on to a small stream called Totara (near Ross), which is narrow and fordable, but runs very strong. We took a small repast here and waited for the tide. When we could proceed we walked to another stream called Mikonui, which we reached by dark, and also stopped there some time for the tide; but we crossed at last, having to swim over twice to carry our clothes. The whole distance, about sixteen miles, is a dense mass of wood-on the hills chiefly rata, and pine on the flat. The travelling for the-greater part is on a loose shifting sand. Bearing off the coast about S.W.

20th. Started with the rising sun, and after proceed­ing about two miles, came to a curious headland or cliff, named by the natives Paramata (Bold Head), which projects some way into the sea, and, from its position and appearance, must be a bold head. I could take no latitudes, my sextant having been spoilt by the wet. Here I found a stratum of very fine slate on a bed of inferior coal, under a kind of blue clay. The slate is hard, of a fine grain, splits freely, and is of a reddish brown colour, resembling Welsh slate. About six miles further we came to a good sized stream, named Waita (Waitaha), about half-a-mile across, which we forded chin deep. There is but little land on the banks of this river available for cultivation before you come to the minor hills, from which rise the mountains that bound the West Coast. We made a long march, and a little after sunset came to the mouth of another large stream called Wanganui, when we camped for the night at a Native pa, but the inhabitants were absent; we found some potatoes however for our supper. From Waita to this place the beach is chiefly composed of sand and rocks alternately, and the coast mostly bounded by cliffs. The Wanganui is a pretty river, but with little level land, and all wooded. It was here George Darnwell and party beached their boat. There is also a peculiar headland on this river, sketches of which I made. Fine.

 
21st. About midday, when the tide permitted, we crossed this river, and reached another called Poeru (Poerua) which is a strong running stream, about 15 yards wide. It is much noted for a pond on its banks abound­ing in eels of a fine quality, which is a summer residence of the natives. The coast for about six miles is still bounded by a range of cliffs, and is in all directions a dense mass of forest, chiefly rata on the hills and on the banks of the streams, either large or small; the pine tribe predominates. The route from Taramakau is across a series of small sandy bays, with rocky points dividing them. The bearing of the coast, S.S.W. by compass. Rain towards evening.

I believe I have now acquired the two greatest requisites for bushmen in New Zealand, viz., the capability of walking barefoot, and the proper method of cooking and eating fern-root. I had often looked forward with dread to the time when my shoes would be worn out, often fearing I should be left a bare­footed cripple in some desolate black birch forest, or on this deserted coast; but now I can trudge along merrily barefoot, or with a pair of native sandals, called by the natives pairairai (Paraerae), made of the leaves of the flax, or, what is more durable, the leaves of the ti or flax tree. I can make a sure footing in crossing rivers and ascending or descending precipices; in fact I feel I am just beginning to make exploring easy work. A good pair of sandals will last about two days' hard work, and they take only about twenty minutes to make.

22nd. Made an early start this morning, and after travelling along a rocky beach about four miles, came to a mountain torrent falling over a large bed of granite rocks. It is called Wairoa (Whataroa river), and is a very ugly stream to ford. The natives told me four young men were lately drowned in crossing it. We all got safely over, and walked to Okaritu, passing another stream, named Waitaki (Waitangi-roto), on our road. We found some natives here. It is about ten miles from Wairoa to Okaritu, but there is no level land, the snow-capped range coming down to the coast. ­

At Wairoa is the wreck of a large sealing boat amongst a lot of underbrush. It is about a quarter of a mile from high water, and the growth of the bushes and the appearance of the wreck show that the sea is fast receding from this coast. This also appears at the mouths of all the rivers.

Okaritu is the pa where Enihu captured and killed many of the natives of the Ngaitau tribe, and also took Te Uru, the chief, prisoner, whom he has since re­leased to return here and work greenstone for him. There are the remains of a very large pa here, which was resorted to for fishing and bird catching. That these places abound in eels I had full proof during my visit here, the diet being nothing else, and was served out in liberal quantities, to dogs as well as Christians, three

times a day. There are six natives living here-two men and four women, who are of the Wesleyan Church, and very punctual, and apparently very zealous in their worship. This pa should be celebrated for the number of dogs kept by the natives, and all in good condition'

23rd. Staying at Okaritu, the wind coming from the N.E., and bringing its usual companion, heavy rain. Okaritu is a large mud-flat of at least 10,000 acres in extent, but nearly all covered at high-water, and is only remarkable for its quantity of fish_ The timber here is very small, and appears of recent growth. I think to the foot of the mountain range has been recently washed by the ocean. At high-water, and at this season, when the rata is beginning to bloom, this is one of the most beautiful pieces of scenery I have seen in New Zealand. It is a great resort for all kinds of water-fowl, and the Paradise ducks come here from all quarters in the moulting season. Com­menced wearing my third new shirt. My wardrobe now sadly diminished in bulk.

24th and 25th. Rain all day. _

26th and 27th. A fresh in the river prevented my proceeding or enjoying a ramble from my shed.

28th. About midday, at low-water, we constructed a raft of the blossom stalks of the flax, and crossed the river, when, we walked about four miles to a small stream called Totara 1, having very pretty scenery, but otherwise of no value. From Okaritu the route is along a range of low cliffs with a sandy and rocky beach, only passable at low-water. We stopped here for the night, the tide preventing our onward progress.

29th. After proceeding about two miles we reached another stream also named Totara, and much like its namesake. We were obliged to erect a shelter at this place against a regular tempest of wind and rain.

30th. Rain.

31st. Showery. The natives proposed leaving our loads here and returning to Okaritu to attend service on Sunday. To this I gave consent, knowing that I should get a good dinner of eels and more comfortable lodging.

I am much astonished to find amongst the natives in the distant parts so much attention paid to their forms of religion, which is the Church and Wesleyan. Much animosity appears to exist between them: and although in some places there are only six or seven natives, yet they have separate places of worship, two schools, and are always quarrelling about religion, each party asserting its own to be the proper service to God. There are some few who have been christened by the late Rev. C. L. Reay, and a few also by Mr Aldred, the Wesleyan missionary.

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