November
1st. At
Okaritu. Showery.
2nd.
Day finer.
I went with the natives spearing eels on the mud flat.
3rd
Made
another start and reached our shed and burdens again.
.
4th.
Proceeded
about four miles along a rocky and shingly beach, and came to
a large mountain rapid running over a large granite bed. The
place is called Waihau (Waiho),
and I found it so flooded as to defy my crossing, and there
being no means of ascending, or any shelter to await its
falling, I was obliged, though very reluctantly, to return to
our shed at Totara
5th
and 6th. At
Totara.
7th.
Made a
resolute start to cross, if possible, over the Waihau, which,
with great difficulty and at the risk of our lives, we
accomplished. It was at this place that the wekas had been
caught I had feasted on at Taramakau : they resort here, dogs
being unable to cross the river after them. Slept at a native
wari here. Fine.
8th.
At Waihau.
9th.
Again
making southing, and reached a stream called Waikukupa, deep
and not fordable, but of no other note. Passed on to another
stream called Miroroa, where we camped for the night, having
spent much of the day constructing a raft to cross the
Waikukupa. About eight miles of travelling over sand and
rocks.
10th.
Proceeded
onwards, and rounded a headland named Kohaihai (Waikohai
Bluff), a low
rocky point; and managed, after difficult walking, to reach a
river called Waiweka (Cook river), where we constructed a
raft ready for crossing in the morning.
11th
Crossed the
river, which is a very dangerous stream flowing from the
mountains over a rocky bed, and proceeded to another small
stream, which we crossed, when the rain compelled us to erect
a shelter.
I2th.
Rain.
13th.
The weather
permitting us to proceed, we came along the base of a low
range of cliffs called the Parapara, and on to the U tumoa, a
small headland, the terminus of the cliffs, when a short sandy
beach brought us to the mouth of a small stream called
Matukituki, where we stopped for the night. From Kohaihai
headland to this point is about sixteen miles. Bearing, S.W.
14th.
After
proceeding about three miles along a rocky beach we came to a
small point called Makawiho (Makawhio
Point) on rounding which we crossed the Waitaki (Mahitahi
river), a mountain stream, and proceeded onwards to a small potato garden at
Porangirangi (near
Bruce Bay),
where we put up for the night and the morrow. Distance about
nine miles.
Sunday,
15th. Natives
read service.
16th.
Proceeded
about six miles, and arrived at Parika (Paringa),
the residence of Tuarope. We passed a small stream called
Hunuakura, of no note or value. At Parika we received the
welcome of strangers in a bountiful supply of fern-root,
preserved wekas, and fish. There is nothing remarkable here,
it being only a summer residence on account of the eels in the
river.
The
natives attach a great value to their greenstone meriss (Meres), or battle-axes of
former times, so much so, that they are buried with their
owners. After remaining in the ground some five or six years
they are dug up, and given to the nearest relation of the
deceased. The natives have also .safe hiding-places for them,
in order that, if surprised and conquered, as in former times,
their enemies might not find them among their spoil. I saw one
belonging to Te Raipo, which has descended from time unknown,
and which they say---Enihu made war on their tribe to
obtain, but could not find it, the meri being hidden at the
bottom of a deep pool of water.
There
are only 97 natives, adults and children, living on the. West
Coast north of lat. 440, all of whom profess some form of
Christianity: 29 of them are members of the Church, and 68
Wesleyans.
17th.
At Parika,
eel catching for our onward progress.
18th.
A shower of
rain formed, in our united opinions, a sufficient excuse for
remaining here another day. We managed to dry enough eels to
last a week. There are no provisions to be found here saving
the kakote.
19th.
After
travelling about three miles we came to a headland called
Titihaia 1, where I slipped, or was rather washed from a rock
by the sea, which crushed my foot between the rocks, and
severely strained my right anele. I was also hurt in several
places by the sharp edges of the granite, which gave me much
pain. Finding I could not clamber the rocks among which I
fell, I was obliged to suffer myself to be led towards Parika,
which my lameness and the tide prevented us reaching that
evening.
20th.
With much
pain I crawled to Parika, where I bound up my leg, and
repeatedly bathed it in cold water, which served to deaden the
pain, and dressed the other scratches with weka oil.
21st,
22nd, 23rd, and 24th. Continual
rain.
25th.
Day
somewhat better, but my ankle still refused to support my
frame.
26th.
Paeturi and
Tipiha requested leave to return to Taramakau, leaving Te
Raipo with me, to which proposition I was compelled to agree.
After
another week's rest I thought myself sufficiently recovered
to proceed, though my anele _as still far from strong; but ten
days followed of almost continual rain. Our provisions were
getting short, the country to the southward was of the
wildest, most barren and forbidding description, so I at last
made up my mind to return, having made my way about eighty
miles further along the coast than on my former expedition
with Mr Heaphy.
I
was induced to make Parika, or rather Titihara, the terminus
of my southing for many reasons. My lameness had made me
anxious to return to Nelson, the summer season was fast
drawing to a close, and I dreaded the idea of another long
winter. The country I was traversing was quite worthless in my
opinion, and most certainly so as respected Nelson. I wished
to return by a fresh route, and see something more of the
interior of the country, and I had resolved to try the Mawera,
if I abandoned the idea of crossing the island from Taramakau
to Port Levi. If I had urged the natives to proceed with me to
the southward I could not have had their services to assist
me with their canoes up the Mawera, and being here without
resources I was much at their mercy. Ekehu also had a runaway
wife from Wakapuaka, and dared not return coastways, which
would have been our shortest route.
When
I told Te Raipo of my intention he was much pleased. He told
me that having only one white man on his hands was too great a
responsibility: if there had been two, he said, he would not
have cared-one might live to tell the fate of the other if
an accident happened to him, but if I died it would likely be
said that he had killed me for the sake of eating or
plundering.
So
on Friday, December 11, I turned my face homewards; first to
rejoin my own natives, and then endeavour once more to see the
face of a white man, and hear my native tongue. A few days
brought us back among the natives, although my lameness made
walking rather, difficult. We passed in succession Okaritu,
Wanganui, Waita, Paiere, and Okitika, reaching Arahura on
December 22nd. The next day we slept at Taramakau, and arrived
at Mawera on Christmas Day. This was well kept by the natives,
followers of both the Church and Wesleyan body. There were
four services in the day, and feasting filled up the intervals
between them.
December
is a glorious month of dietary amongst the natives on the
coast, as fresh fruit and vegetables are then coming into
season. The rivers, large or small, abound in eels, hawera,
upukuroro, haparu, patiki, and parauki; the fruit of the
ekiakia is then ripe, called by the natives tawara, and is
very luscious, more like a conserve than a fruit; the honey of
the flax blossom is also in season, called korari, and, when
mixed with fern-root, also makes a species of confectionary ;
the natives also commence on the young potatoes and turnips,
and make taro ov_ns of the mamakou, and of a species of the ti,
the stem of which is the eatable part, and is called koari ;
it is very sweet and pleasant to the taste.
This
month also the sandflies are most numerous, driving the
natives to all sorts of expedients to get rid of them. Fire is
the best protection; and you see all the houses with a fire
inside and outside; placed so that the smoke protects the
entrance or doorway. You partake of your meals under the
shelter of the smoke of a circle of fires, the natives
objecting to eat in their houses on account of the large
meat-fly.
The
15th of December was the anniversary of my leaving Fraser, the
last white person I saw, on the
banks
of the Rotuiti river.
Conclusion
of the year 1847, the whole of which I have spent among the
natives, and chiefly on the banks of the Buller or Kawatiri,
during which time I have lived on the produce of the country,
and the few potatoes 1- have had on the coast, which are now,
from want of proper cultivation, almost uneatable. I have
never heard a word of English the whole year.
While
I was at Okitika, one of the native children, the son of Tipia,
of about seven years of age, took such a fancy to me that it
was with difficulty I could get away from him. When I came
away, he clung round my legs, crying, and I was obliged to
remove him by force. His father wished me to take him with me,
but his mother refused, which I was glad of, as he would have
been much in our way in difficulties, and unable to bear the
hardships of the bush.
At
this place, also, an incident occurred by which I gained great
repute amongst the natives. A party of us had paddled to
Kunaere (Kanieri) one morning eel fishing; and on returning in
the evening, at every good situation we took a draught with
our kupenga for upukororo, when at one place the canoe was
left with two children in it, who, by playing with the oars,
brought the canoe into the current, and as it was making rapid
headway for a very awkward shoal, I jumped into another canoe,
paddled across the river to the eddy, and, towing the canoe up
the other bank; regained a sufficient length to enable me to
recross to our proper station, when a cry amongst the natives
at the restoration of their children put an end to a
pleasant day's fishing.
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